Glamping in the Rain Forest

The roads are quiet on Christmas Day, even the Transamericana is empty and it’s a short drive before we turn off at Chacarita and head for the Golfo Dulce.  We’re expecting an unpaved road but things have changed and we now have brand new smooth tarmac and we zip up hills and tree covered valleys at reasonable speed before turning onto an unpaved road to the Dantica Cloudforest Lodge on the Osa Peninsula.

Our accommodation is a fantastic lodge ( hut) in the rain forest some distance from the other lodges and completely surrounded by trees.  Our secluded lodge has its own private outdoor bathroom and no solid walls.  Insect proof nets separate us from the jungle on three sides of our lodge and during the day we fasten back the nets to let the jungle in.  There’s a veranda with a hammock and a big fan (which is essential).

walk to our room

Clean and airy

Our room. Look no walls

Hard work this hanging around

We sign up for an all day trek into the national park.  The guide describes the walk as medium/difficult with a lot of steep terrain.  It’s not for the faint hearted. A guide and 6 other people accompany us and we travel to the ‘jump-off’ point in a cart pulled by a tractor.

Thinking of you Pip ....our own tractor

The journey takes an hour and is spectacular.  Now we understand the need for the tractor as we pass through the Rincon River some 12 times, often using the shallow river bed as the road.  It’s a bumpy ride but the views are stunning and we spot Amazon Kingfishers, a King Vulture, White Ibis and Blue Herons on our trip

on we plunge into the Rio Rincon

Black headed vulture drying out his wings

fly catcher building a nest

Striped  Cuckoo

Amazon Kingfisher

King Vulture

Eventually we reach the Ranger Station where we register to enter the park. Eating fresh from the tree bananas is a welcome treat before we climb back on the tractor to go further into the interior.

We weren't smiling for too long!

arrgh the rain forest

We are dropped off at a small gap in the foliage – the paths here are muddy and steep.  Immediately the heat and humidity hit us – on the cart gentle breezes lulled us but here even thinking makes you sweat.  It’s a steep climb, probably at 45 degrees and its long – we plod our way upwards drenched in sweat from head to toe.  The pace is gentle but even with stops to look at the wildlife the humidity is a challenge.

Basilisk

Spider (not long for this world as it was stood upon)

At the half way mark our group is sodden but determined!  We find a small stretch of flat path before we begin a very steep downward descent to our objective, a waterfall where we can enjoy a dip.  We climb down using tree roots and branches to avoid tumbling down the rocky path it’s steep, slippery and very muddy and all I can think of is how on earth are we ever going to get back up again.

Eventually we arrive at the small waterfall and everyone strips off and jumps into the refreshing cold water.  A small waterfall tumbles down the rock and the deep pool below is fantastic for cooling down.  I’m just amazed that no steam comes off our very hot bodies

Fantastic ice cool fresh bath!

John cools off

We unroll our Everton towel (thanks for the Christmas present Ian) and 5,500 miles from Goodison Park we claim the pool on behalf of all Evertonians.

Everton,, into the middle of the rain forest

We enjoy a packed lunch before putting back on our damp cloths and boots and set off on the return journey.  Yep climbing back up is a killer and I have visions of not making it.  John assists with helpful shoves from behind and our group, bonded by sweat, eventually reaches the top of the climb and we gee on each other until eventually returning to our trusted tractor that is waiting for us with a cool box containing beer. Never did beer taste so good.  The journey back is just as spectacular with the toucans putting in an appearance and a lovely Swallow Tailed Hawk above.

Laughing Falcon

Dragon Fly

White Ibis and a Little Blue Heron

Slaty Tailed Trogon

Sleeping in the lodge is a real jungle experience with all the sounds of the rainforest just a net away.  We are awoken at dawn to a chorus of unimaginable birdsong with every bird insisting on being heard.

View from our bed

After a lazy day lying in the hammock we set off to go kayaking into the mangroves.  It’s a short drive to Play Blanca and on arrival we are met by hundreds of partying Ticas who have descended on the area for Christmas.  Music blares out and it’s a real family event.  Tents, cars, dogs barbecues – bathers in the warm waters of Golfo Dolce – everyone is generally having a great time and there’s a carnival atmosphere.

Our guide, Flacko leads us into the very warm water and we hop in to our kayaks setting out for the mangroves. Dolphins and sea turtles put in an appearance before we turn into the mangroves.  We leave the ‘party sounds’ behind and enter a largely silent world broken only by the bird calls and the swish of our paddles.  I almost crash into a parked boat with Flacko shouting to me to use the brake. I didn’t even know kayaks had one so after a quick lesson in how to stop and steer we set of again.  We don’t have camearas with us for obvious reasons but John has the Gopro.  Our guide points out various birds and a large boa constrictor that is sleeping inches above us in the trees. At this point I find the overdrive and speed off. John spends ages looking at the snake which made me even more nervous.

After about an hour we stop and get out of our kayaks into about  5 inches  of water.  John is chasing the fish with the Gopro and soon realises the water quickly gets much deeper.

The journey back is beautiful with toucans and herons in the trees.  We get up close with a large tiger heron and above us a family of raccoons sleeps high in the branches of an overhanging tree.

A shy Fiery billed Aracari

Black mandibled Toucan - makes you want a guinness

We skillfully negotiate the happy bathers and arrive back at Playa Blanca.  The party is in full swing whilst in the tree above, a sleeping sloth dozes.  Back at the lodge we continue to dodge insects on our path to the bar - and as it's barefoot in the bar it pays to check your shoes on leaving.

Schoolboy stick insect error - you need to be amongst other sticks!

and this was hiding in my shoe!

After another wonderful nights sleep under the stars we give up on our plans to go visit the local town and spend the day lounging around watching and listening to the wildlife from our hammock.  This has surely been one of the highlights of our trip but its not over yet and tomorrow we travel into the clouds for an appointment with the Mountain of Death!